Most of the time shifting issues just get you frustrating but in some rare cases, they could even lead to damage to your bike or even cause an accident. We don't want that to happen. So if you are experiencing consistent clicking as you pedal, or inconsistent shifting, or if your chain often falls off, or even if you can’t shift into some cogs on your cassette, knowing your bike a little more could help you solve your problem.
SHIFTING ADJUSTMENT
Improperly adjusted derailleurs can lead to poor shifting or can cause the chain to fall off while riding. It is believed that derailleurs are one of the most misunderstood, misadjusted and misused pieces of equipment on any bicycle but the good news is that when a derailleur goes out of adjustment, most of the time it is just a simple fix.
So if you're having trouble shifting or seeing the chain grind against the derailleur, we believe you shouldn't have to go to the bike store for a fix. All you need are some basic skills, tools and a good eye. With practice and patience, you too can become a smooth-shifting pro. Normally the problem is usually solved by adjusting the cable tension and limit screws.
Remember that all cables are wear and tear parts which means that all cables wear out and stretch over the time regardless the brand or price of your bike, so no matter how much you’ve paid for your bike sooner or later you’ll have to adjust the tension for your cables and we’re here to help and give you some tips how to do it yourself and at the same time learn more about your new bike.
Let's start by trying to shift into a larger ring on the back and see what happens. So if we go to shift into a larger ring on the back and the derailleur is disobedient then that means you need to add tension to the cable. You can do this by twisting a barrel adjuster counter clockwise. Don’t go turning the adjuster all the way, try a quarter turn first and see if that improves the shifting, if not, try another quarter turn and continue until the chain eagerly jumps up to the larger cog.
If you go too far you will notice that the derailleur no longer shifts down to a smaller ring properly which means that your cable has too much tension. To remedy this just turn the barrel adjuster the opposite way in small increments until the chain moves quickly and smoothly up and down!
Limit screws are a set of derailleur stroke adjustment screws that restrict the movement of the derailleur so it can move the chain into a position where there is the cog. Limit screws adjust the two limits of the derailleur: the high limit (littlest cog) and the low limit (biggest cog) consequently there are two screws for this task marked with an L and H respectively.
The simple explanation is that the upper pulley wheel should align with the largest and smallest cogs and no further. Usually if the chain is not shifting or is over shifting in your biggest and littlest cogs they are out of adjustment.
If the L limit is too open when you go to shift into your big ring, your chain hops off your cassette. If your H is too open then the chain can come off and wedge itself between the dropout and your cassette or may just continue to jump off the small cog.
To fix this you’ll need a small Phillips or flat head screwdriver. Shift into either the lowest or highest gear on your rear cassette and adjust the L or H screw by turning them clockwise until the upper pulley wheel aligns with that cog.
If your chain won’t shift up into the largest cog or down into the smallest cog and your cable tension is correct then you will need to open the limits. Using either your small Phillips or flat head screwdriver, open the limit by turning the screw counter clock wise, work in small increments until you can get the chain into the correct gear. Once your chain is cooperating, adjust the limit so that top pulley aligns with the cog.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
Modern mountain bikes use disc brakes because disc brakes deliver incredible stopping power in pretty much all weather conditions. That's why disc brakes are preferred by riders who deal with wet, muddy or icy conditions on a regular basis, as they can provide better stopping power in these conditions. There are two types of disc brakes: mechanical and hydraulic.
Mechanical disc brakes use the same cables and housing found on traditional cantilevers and V-brakes. Most of the time cables offer certain advantages over hydraulic systems, including simpler installation and adjustment, lighter weight, and less complicated maintenance (cables can be found at any bike shop and are less expensive than hydraulic lines).
Adjusting mechanical disc brakes is pretty straightforward. All you’ll need is an hex wrench. That’s it. So lets get to it!
Firstly, lets release the tension by loosening the bolt that holds the brake cable in place on the brake caliper/pad mechanism. Now push the brakes activating arm upward a bit until it stops moving, and back off about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of cable length and tighten the cable down. The same technique works for the front disc brakes too.
Now test the tension on the brake cable by holding your handlebars normally and pulling the brake levers. Your brakes should engage firmly near the middle of their range. If necessary, adjust the cable to increase or decrease tension. Fine tune the feel until braking is smooth, strong, and consistent.
CHAIN SKIPPING
Does your chain skip between gears when you pedal or shift twice instead of once, or refuse to shift when you need to? If this is the only problem you have, we have some good news for you - usually that's the most simple fix!
Most of the time, a skipping chain is caused by cable stretch because it takes cable tension to open a derailleur, which shifts your chain between gears. It should be noted that in the first 10-20 rides on a new bike your shift cables stretch the most. They can also stretch over time as you ride. To solve cable stretch issue, you just simply have to add tension to your cables. Usually that solves the problem. In most cases you don't even need to readjust limit screws or do anything else. So lets get to it!
To fix a skip in the rear derailleur, shift your chain into the smallest ring on your rear cassette (the hardest gear) and largest ring on your front derailleur. Press your shifter once. If the chain doesn’t move up a gear, you need to add tension.
Twist your right barrel adjuster - which will be on your brake laterally opposite from your brake lever - the brake cable passes through it as it enters your shifter. Unscrew the adjuster by turning it away from you half a turn.
Now shift down into the smallest ring in the rear cassette, and press your shifter again to see if the bike shifts properly. If the bike still does not shift, repeat the entire process. When the first cog shifts correctly, continue to move through the gears in your cassette, fine tuning with the barrel adjuster as you go.
The same technique works for the front derailleur, which also has a barrel adjuster. However, the front derailleur barrel adjuster tensions in the opposite direction. Screw the adjuster towards you to add tension.
Now get out there and enjoy the ride!
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